Hemis Monastery
Ladakh's biggest monastery, Hemis gompa is 49 km from Leh on the Leh-Manali road. It was founded about 360 years ago (1630) by Stagtshang Raspa, who was invited to Ladakh by King Singe Namgyal who also established the monasteries of Chemre, Hanle and Themisgam. It belongs to the red sect, Brokpa. Hemis monastery is tucked away among rocks and concealing poplars inside the Hemis National Park. There are a number of shrines around the great courtyard, all of them of considerable interest. Some scholars even believe that Hemis holds ancient documents, which speak of the hidden years of Jesus Christ. It is also known as Chang Chub Sam Ling or “the lone place of the compassionate person.” To commemorate the birth of the renowned Indian sage, Padmasambhava, the annual Hemis Setchu festival is held in late June or early July when the passes are open. This is one of the largest and most spectacular of the gompa festivals.
Once every twelve years, the Hemis festival also hosts the ritual unrolling of a giant thangka, the gompa's prized possession, which covers the entire facade of the building. It is decorated with pearls, precious stones and embroidered by women, whose hands are now revered as holy relics.
Among the treasures on display is an exquisite Buddha Shakyamuni, also inlaid with jewels. The serene faced colossus sits in the Cho-khang at the far end of the courtyard along with a couple of richly inlaid chortens.
Hemis was built in 1630 during the reign of Sengge Namgyal, an illustrious ruler of Ladakh. It flourished under the Namgyal dynasty for the royalty favoured the Druk-pa Sect which managed the monastery. It is divided into two, the Assembly Hall on the right and the main temple on the left. The Hall, Dukhang, is also used as a 'green room' by the dancers during the festival. The temple is known as Tshogkhang. The verandahs have a surfeit of frescoes, among them the Buddhist 'Wheel of life' (Kalachakra) and the 'Lords of the Four Quarters,' besides rows of prayer wheels.
You can gain an impression of the extent of the monastery area on the climb to the eyrie, a hermitage known as gotsang or Kotsang gompa which is reached by a one hour, three km climb to 3900meters, 300 meters higher than Hemis. The 13th century monastery predates the Hemis Gompa and was built by Sylwa Gotsang-Pa, who meditated in a cave nearby. A small shrine has been built around the cave, where you can see his foot and hand prints in the rock.
